Sunday, May 25, 2008

The pace quickens




Well, it still hasn’t stopped raining…how come it was perfect in Manchester and so wet here…the world certainly is changing…
I’m now safely ensconced in Uni accommodation and … it’s better than the hotel. I was expecting pretty standard student/college rooms but in fact I’m in rather attractive old house that has been converted for visiting academics. A smallish room – but bathroom and kitchenette as well and about a 20 minute walk to the faculty – would be quite nice if it was sunny! University of Ljubljana is big – 60,000 + students in a town of only 270,000 people – so students everywhere. And about 65 undergraduate full-timers in the LIS school – is good to see crowds of students. Their English is good though they are a bit shy about asking questions and I have done three lectures so far – another three to go. They are 90 mins each (no break!) and on the whole they have gone well … I assume… as it’s a bit hard to tell with everyone being so polite. They are all young and very few blokes – even less than we have… though interestingly, the faculty is about half and half.

Watched the Man United/Chelsea match on a big screen here with a few of the guys – lots of beer and crisps…just like England! And was a good match too… Got back to my accommodation about midnight and found someone had kindly locked the front gate to the grounds which caused me some degree of perturbation (as Jeeves might say – have been reading PG Wodehouse a bit lately). Fortunately, having drunk enough to be confident but not uncoordinated, I managed to scale the fence and get to my front door…not easy, but finally got in OK. Though was a bit concerned that maybe someone would have seen me and the local police would shortly be on their way…but my concerns were unfounded… I am still here!

Have now finished lectures and in the afternoon I had a personalised tour of the National Library. It’s great – an imposing building with fabulous art deco designed furniture inside – a lot of care (and money) went into it. It is rather imposing though – if you weren’t confident you might feel a bit put off going inside. Afterwards had a couple of drinks by the river – the sun had finally come out – and it was very pleasant. Though it didn’t last – rained again yesterday and I cancelled my tour of the city. Will try again….also internet connection out in my accommodation – a bit irritating as have been relying on that for news etc – with only Slovenian or German language TV available in my flat it ain’t that informative or entertaining!

Finally did a tour of the city which was interesting – lots of history. During the tour, a thought suddenly struck me which hadn't occurred to me before – and I doubt, dear reader, if it has ever caused you concern either. That is the preponderance of soaring gothic architecture in churches in the northern countries – England, Germany, France – and their complete absence it seems from Italy and as it appears, Slovenia. This erudite question popped into my head while in an Italianate renaissance style church in Lube (as it’s known to its friends) – which is all roundish – arches, and curvy bits (my knowledge of architecture is a bit limited) – with no soaring spires at all. St Peters in Rome is the same… so I mentioned it to the guide. Alas, no obvious answer it seems – there was an earthquake here in 15 something that destroyed 95% of the town…so everything had to be built from scratch again..so if there was a gothic masterpiece before – it’s long gone. But it is an interesting question …. Something to ponder…

Also took the funicular up to the castle – its on a big hill overlooking the town (walked down!). A bit odd what they’ve done to the castle in trying to make it a tourist spot and also preserve its integrity. It sort of works but we would probably think too much modernizing has been done to it. Downstairs they had an exhibition – lots of quite nice exhibition panels describing medieval life (I assume) but all in Slovenian. The only English in a book tied to the first panel – odd, since 90% of the visitors would not be native speakers I wouldn’t think. And they’ve gone to all this trouble to create great art work with the panels and lots of info…hmmm - everywhere else English is rampant!

Someone was getting married in the castle courtyard - fair 'nuff - but what is it with the piano accoprdion and this country - it does seem to be the national instrument - but at your wedding?? Surely that's taking nationalism just a little too far!

Sunday – managed not to rain but still overcast and cool. Sorted myself on the public transport – it’s cheap and good – and off into the countryside and to Postojna Caves – the second largest complex in Europe if you didn’t know. You take a train into the heart of them and walk from there – the train runs through tunnels about one inch higher than me and the driver obviously loves his job – drove like a complete maniac – as fast as he could – was truly scary. I can’t believe more people haven’t been scalped – if I had a Bob Hawke head of hair I would have been in trouble…sadly(?) I don’t! The caves are caves – think I might have done my life share of caves – they are pretty much the same – stalacmites/tites etc (how do you remember – tites come down), giant halls, lots of water and pretty chilly. Still, was pleased I’d done it and also mastered the public transport system (though truth be told is simple here as everyone speaks good English). Have also finished my literary book I bought in Manchester – Alias Grace by Margaret Atwood – loved it and will leave it here for the next visitor. Finished Melvyn Bragg’s Credo a while ago – it just went on and on and to be honest was a bit of a chore. And from a secondhand bookshop in town bought Geraldine Brooks’ March – which, with an omnibus slection of Stephen Fry writings from The Listener et al should tide me over till I get home.

No comments: